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  1. #31
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    Once again, I'm really impressed with both the attention to detail you have for your work and the photodocumentaion of your progress. This should be a sticky and should be an example for anyone wanting to mod a GPR. Keep it up!

  2. #32
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty View Post
    Once again, I'm really impressed with both the attention to detail you have for your work and the photodocumentaion of your progress. This should be a sticky and should be an example for anyone wanting to mod a GPR. Keep it up!
    I agree! being neat and taking your time to do things correctly is paying off. Work looks great as does the write up! Good job! This is also a perfect example of doing things a little different and filling the voids in the shoe with the resin as opposed to the PPK. Def a lot of thought going into this rebuild...


  3. #33
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USCME View Post
    Bolted up the rideplate today to get a better look at the shoe fitment. Here's a few pics, the shoe is definitely recessed into the hull. The trailing edge of the shoe hangs slightly lower than the front of the rideplate but is even across the edge of the rideplate. Keep in mind, this is a factory gpr rideplate bolted up as it came from the factory, no shims at all.








    Can anybody clarify what people refer to as the nickel rule. I've read, run a straight edge along the hull and measure spacing between hull and shoe. I've heard a nickel in the front and a dime in the back is optimal, and allows a little more plate angle. When measuring this do you run a straight edge along the length of the hull, holding the straight edge flush with the hull and measuring clearance between the hull and shoe? Does anyone have a picture of this measurement being taken as that would be very helpful?
    you will find/see no shims under the OEM rideplate as it came from the factory. The nickel rule as I understand it, is to place a straight edge, ie: square, 2 ft level linear front to back placed on the hull in line with the shoe mounting bolts ahead of the shoe having the straight edge extend over the shoe entirely. you should be able to place a nickel (5 cents) between straight edge and shoe surface front to rear in the area of the mounting bolts.

    I have seen a few recess their shoe more, or correct any misalignment.
    Having the shoe square and ride plate naturally sit flat. square and flush to the shoe/plate joint is what you want.
    Your work/pics show just that...

  4. #34
    USCME's Avatar
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    Pale Rider
    Originally Posted by Smitty
    Once again, I'm really impressed with both the attention to detail you have for your work and the photodocumentaion of your progress. This should be a sticky and should be an example for anyone wanting to mod a GPR. Keep it up!
    I agree! being neat and taking your time to do things correctly is paying off. Work looks great as does the write up! Good job! This is also a perfect example of doing things a little different and filling the voids in the shoe with the resin as opposed to the PPK. Def a lot of thought going into this rebuild...
    Smitty and Andy, lots of thanks for the compliments!

    Andy, thanks for clarification on proper shoe alignment, I'll be sealing it in soon. I plan to seal it in with 5200, hopefully I won't have to pull it out anytime soon as that seems like it would be a real pain.

  5. #35
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USCME View Post
    Smitty and Andy, lots of thanks for the compliments!

    Andy, thanks for clarification on proper shoe alignment, I'll be sealing it in soon. I plan to seal it in with 5200, hopefully I won't have to pull it out anytime soon as that seems like it would be a real pain.
    welcome!

    expect to push any air out and see bubbles or growing areas of 5200. it is messy.
    keep tightening the bolts, slowly, then again and again as it will ooze. don`t muscle it right away. torque to spec when done. use plenty of masking and have acetone and rags on hand...
    you might want to get yourself a small caulking spatula tool or cake icing spreader from ACmoore...
    whatever makes it easier to scoop/tool the excess and make a nice finish...
    let the party begin...lol...

  6. #36
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    any new work/progress?

  7. #37
    USCME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
    any new work/progress?
    Haven't had much free time around work lately, I plan to seal in the transom and shoe during a free evening this week. I'm also picking up an HO pump from a member on here and looking forward to installing that as soon as i receive it

    Also, picked up a commercial tiny tach and garmin etrex. Once I'm back on the water I'll get in some baseline runs and start tuning/modifying from there.

    I'm leaning towards getting an IR wear ring housing with plastic wear ring to replace mine along with a solas 13/19. Once again, thanks to everyone posting and reading! Any input you all may have on the wear ring and prop is appreciated, seems the 13/19 is a reasonable step up from stock and the plastic wear rings are cheap and easily replaceable when they wear out. I know RX951 has run the plastic wear ring for a while, anyone else who has experience using one care to comment?

  8. #38
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    Personally, I'd use 4200FC, over 5200 to seal the shoe. You will break the shoe if you ever have to remove it, if you use 5200...4200 is bad enough. Be sure to use FAST CURE, regardless of if you use 5200 or 4200...otherwise, it will take weeks to cure.

  9. #39
    USCME's Avatar
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    PolarisNut-Thanks for your input, I have a 10oz tube of both 4200FC and 5200FC, currently trying to decide which to use for the shoe and transom.


    Anyone else have strong opinions one way or the other considering 5200 vs 4200 for the pump shoe and transom? I've been back and forth myself, the 5200 is solid and shouldn't deteriorate at all but I know will be very difficult to remove and possibly damage the shoe/hull if it had to be removed. Assuming the shoe is properly aligned and adequately sealed, what are some reasons for which you would have to remove it?

    4200 will be easier to remove but I have heard of it deteriorating on some people's ski's in which case they had to pull and reseal the shoe. On the other hand, some people have used only 4200 for years without any problems. I'm sure riding conditions contribute some too.

    I ride only in lakes and rivers so I don't see any saltwater or any extreme rough conditions. I also trailer it there so it's only in the water if I'm riding, never sits at a dock for very long.


    This thread has a few people's personal experience and opinions, support for 5200 and 4200 seems about even, just differing in individual cases..http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...removal(beware)

    Any input welcomed as I'll be sealing the shoe and transom this week.

  10. #40
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    this is a tough one... I used 5200, and I see a worm hole, prolly from trapped air in my set-up... does it go anywhwere, IDK... I don`t have cavitaion, but nonetheless it disturbs me...
    either way, there is enough sealnt applied to the mating surfaces that anything used will be a PITA to remove especially while on your back...

    If you do it right, and keep watching the ooze, and tooling/cleaning the mess, you shouldn`t have to remove it... even based on your riding area/waters...

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