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  1. #21
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USCME View Post
    Thanks Andy and Smitty, I was planning on using the Gate's hose and didn't think about the Lowe's nylon reinforced hose, I think I'll use that, and thanks for the warm water tip for getting it on.

    I plan to add some information to this thread soon and can't wait to get back in the garage this weekend Stay tuned for updates
    you guys are using the clear reinforced hose for the tunnel/shaft hose???


  2. #22
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyGPR View Post
    you guys are using the clear reinforced hose for the tunnel/shaft hose???
    I did on my first GPR, probably on my next too. The stuff is thick, reinforced, it can handle the pressure. And it looks friggin awesome, you can see your shaft through it. It's just impossible to get in place at room temp, you gotta get it warm and soft.

  3. #23
    USCME's Avatar
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    Smitty, any idea what the pressure rating on that hose is? I may check it out this weekend and see if I can find any specs on it versus the Gates manufactured hose.

  4. #24
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    The Gates is probably rated higher; the Gates is probably overkill too. Compare the stock hose to the stuff at Lowes, and see how much more solid the Lowes hose is. Remember, the shaft is pre-pump, you really aren't gonna have the kinds of pressure there as you do in the pump area. In fact, I've wondered if some of the failure of the stock hose isn't from the stress of it collapsing during acceleration as the pump creates negative pressure around the shaft. The stock hose is flimsy; both the Lowes and the Gates hoses are a ton more solid.

    In the end it's whatever makes you comfortable. I'd have no problem sticking it on my Crayola ski if it didn't already have a Gates hose on it, and it's an 83mph ski.

  5. #25
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty View Post
    The Gates is probably rated higher; the Gates is probably overkill too. Compare the stock hose to the stuff at Lowes, and see how much more solid the Lowes hose is. Remember, the shaft is pre-pump, you really aren't gonna have the kinds of pressure there as you do in the pump area. In fact, I've wondered if some of the failure of the stock hose isn't from the stress of it collapsing during acceleration as the pump creates negative pressure around the shaft. The stock hose is flimsy; both the Lowes and the Gates hoses are a ton more solid.

    In the end it's whatever makes you comfortable. I'd have no problem sticking it on my Crayola ski if it didn't already have a Gates hose on it, and it's an 83mph ski.
    yes, there is a vacuum there and causes the thin OEM hose to collapse and rub on the drive shaft eventually creating a leak, and then glub glub glub...

    here are 2 other choices, Dayco and Sheilds marine

  6. #26

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    Did mine yesterday or the day beofre cant remember my days are bluring... Got the stuff at Kragen under the brand name vulcon i think. I did see rub marks on the inside of my stock hose.... I think smitty and andy are 100% spot on about the stock hose collapsing and rubbing.

  7. #27
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    When I did my first GPR, I was surprised at how flimsy the stock hose was. Any good, solid hose the right size will work just fine. For me, the Lowes clear hose was (a) convenient, and (b) pretty cool looking. Very few people ever saw it (even though I posted a thread with pics on the Riva board), but to me it was sweet to look at it and see the shaft running through it.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty View Post
    When I did my first GPR, I was surprised at how flimsy the stock hose was. Any good, solid hose the right size will work just fine. For me, the Lowes clear hose was (a) convenient, and (b) pretty cool looking. Very few people ever saw it (even though I posted a thread with pics on the Riva board), but to me it was sweet to look at it and see the shaft running through it.
    can ya dig up that pic? it would be cool to see it...

  9. #29
    USCME's Avatar
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    Thumbs down Made a little progress and took a step back

    With the tunnel reinforced and the shoe filled, I moved on to reinstalling the shoe. I needed some new pump shoe inserts. The factory inserts for 2000 are pretty poor; they apply the force to the hull along a very small surface area and are prone to spinning in the hull when being tightened or unbolted.

    I considered buying the updated brackets from boats.net but with a metal supplier a few blocks from my house and a bridgeport mill at work, I figured I'd fab my own

    They are made from 6061 aluminum 1"x1" bar stock. Holes were drilled 0.8" deep and threaded with a bottoming tap. Also picked up some new hardware. Went with all stainless bolts, flat washers, and spring lock washers. The factory hardware is M8x1.25 with a 35mm threaded length. I went with the same specs except for a 40mm threaded length as it has to pass through more material after the tunnel reinforcement.
    r

    Quick tip for installing this type of insert, get some cheap bolts that are longer than you need and cut the heads off.


    Loosely hand thread these into the inserts and use them to guide the inserts into place using the bolts to align them.




    Now one by one, unscrew these studs and thread in the hardware the shoe is to be mounted with.


    Next I pulled the pump to replace the pump shaft hose, and fill the two cavities in the transom that mate with the back of the pump shoe.

    I pulled the rideplate first. It's pretty straightforward, pull the paddle wheel speed sensor first and move it aside. Unscrew the four phillips head bolts that secure it from the bottom of the rideplate.


    Next unscrew the four bolts securing the rideplate to the hull. They are all 12mm. I applied a little heat to the bolts first to loosen any threadlocker on them.


    With the rideplate off, I moved on to pulling the pump.
    Start by unhooking the trim and steering from the nozzle. The QSTS cable connects to the top of the nozzle and can be unhooked by hand. Slide the sleeve back so that it can clear the ball bolted to the nozzle.




    Next unhook the steering linkage on the right side of the nozzle, the nut is a 10mm.


    Unhook the visibility spout, great time to plug it up if you don't like it.


    The bilge siphon hose runs to the left side of the pump, you'll have to snip the zip-tie securing the hose and slip it off of the pump.


    Now you're ready to unbolt the pump, there is one 10mm bolt and four 14mm bolts securing it to the transom. Apply a little heat to all of these and then get a long extension to unscrew them. You may have to use a wobble fit or swivel to get at some of them.

    10mm bolt


    14mm bolt


    Unbolted and ready to come off


    The pump may still be tight against the transom after unbolting it. Gently pry it away from the transom working around it.


    Once it pops free, gently guide it out being careful with driveshaft and you're done!


    I inspected my pump, and this is where my project took a step back, found some bad stuff
    A little tough to see in the pic, but you can see in this spot the wear ring coming away from the housing a little bit.


    Also saw this in my pump, busted stator vein


    Wasn't expecting this, now the debate is whether I should find a cheap used 1200r pump or spend a little more and try to find a used HO pump. If I can find an HO pump for a reasonable price, I'd really like that, but we'll have to see.

    The project continues, I pulled the transom next. There are four 14mm nuts that screw onto the transom studs from inside the hull, unscrew these first. The holes in the transom that the steering and trim cables run through are big enough for the transom to slide over the cable connections that secure them to the hull. I had already unhooked all the hoses that connect to the transom when doing my tunnel reinforcement so that was already done.

    After this pry around edges of the transom working your way around it to loosen it from the hull, it will take a good bit of force as the transom is sealed to the hull pretty well from the factory. There are tabs on the edges of the transom you can use to pry on.

    Transom off



    Cavities to fill


    I had a few ounces of casting resin left so I finished that off on the transom.


    Sanded the resin flush after curing and cleaned up the old sealant on the transom and hull.


    I pulled the driveshaft hose to replace it.
    Factory hose


    Hose removed


    Everyone who said the factory hose was flimsy was right, it's not very substantial at all and I can definitely see how it would pull in too much when under vacuum. I cut it open to see if/where the hose had been rubbing against the driveshaft.
    It had definitely been rubbing some.

    Don't have a replacement yet, need to shop around a little.

    Finally, I did a dry fit of the transom and pump shoe. I'll take any input before I fully seal it in as that's something I really only want to do once. Picked up a 10oz tube of 5200 and 4200 so I'm covered there, just want to make sure my alignment is right. I mounted the transom aligning it with the bolt holes and the small nubs on the hull that it butts up against.

    As for the shoe; I slid it up and back as far as it would go and kept it as square in the hull as possible. Here's a few pics, let me know what you think. Everything is installed as it will be when going back together for good with the exception of sealant, all hardware torqued to spec.

    Front of shoe


    Right side when looking at ski from rear


    Left side when looking at ski from rear


    View through tunnel.


    View from back looking towards bow


    I'll take any and all input on the shoe alignment you guys have.

    What's to come:
    Need to decide if I'm going to pick up a used 1200 pump for cheap or try to find an HO pump, the HO would be a nice upgrade but I am anxious to get it back on the water soon.

    Going to get the shoe and transom sealed back in and everything back together minus the pump soon.

    Thanks to everyone who has commented or read, I'm open to any and all ideas and information you guys have. Much Thanks!!

    Sam

  10. #30
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    Pump Shoe Fitment

    Bolted up the rideplate today to get a better look at the shoe fitment. Here's a few pics, the shoe is definitely recessed into the hull. The trailing edge of the shoe hangs slightly lower than the front of the rideplate but is even across the edge of the rideplate. Keep in mind, this is a factory gpr rideplate bolted up as it came from the factory, no shims at all.







    Can anybody clarify what people refer to as the nickel rule. I've read, run a straight edge along the hull and measure spacing between hull and shoe. I've heard a nickel in the front and a dime in the back is optimal, and allows a little more plate angle. When measuring this do you run a straight edge along the length of the hull, holding the straight edge flush with the hull and measuring clearance between the hull and shoe? Does anyone have a picture of this measurement being taken as that would be very helpful?

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