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  1. #11
    USCME's Avatar
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    Update

    Got some work done this past Friday and just now getting a chance to post it up. Was nice to see a few things go back together.

    First up, I reinstalled the factory airbox, gonna wait a little bit on the carb rebuild and F/A's, but those are next on the list.


    With that taken care of, I reinstalled the exhaust chamber. This wasn't bad at all when done the right way. When removing the exhaust chamber you need to rotate it counter clockwise (when viewed from the stern looking forward) and up as you pull it out of the hull. Installation is just the reverse of this. Definitely insert the two port side bolts in the chamber that secure it to the exhaust manifold before putting the manifold back in the hull, otherwise it will be pretty difficult to get those in there. Make sure to use medium strength threadlocker on all the bolts between the exhaust chamber and manifold.

    I went ahead and installed all 4 of the bolts with threadlocker before putting the chamber back in the hull, but really only the port side ones must be done ahead of time.


    Make sure you have the gasket oriented correctly before installing. This little buddy, saves me a lot of time in those hard to reach places in the hull

    Once it's in, torque the 4 chamber to manifold bolts to 28ft*lbs.

    Next there is the bracket securing the chamber to the front of the cylinder head. Make sure the spacers on the front side of the bracket are assembled as they were when coming out, if you have any doubts about it, just check the exploded diagram in the service manual. Cajundude recommended using threadlocker on the front two bolts of this bracket but not on the back two that bolt to the cylinder head. If anyone has anything to add as to why that is, that'd be great. I left the threadlocker off the cylinder head bolts and applied it to the other two bolts.

    Torque the front two bolts to 28ft*lbs.
    Torque the rear two bolts to the head to 11ft*lbs then 25ft*lbs.

    Don't forget, there are four water lines that must be connected to the exhaust chamber, the two near the port side on the upper part of the chamber are no problem, but the other two need to be considered when getting the chamber in before bolting it down so you have some flexibility and get everything properly secured.

    Here it is fully installed.



    Next up; I've decided to go ahead and reinforce the pump tunnel, seal the pump shoe, and install a new intake grate before putting her back on the water. In preparation for this I began to remove the waterbox, exhaust components behind the midwall, and two sections of styrofoam.

    Here it is before beginning.

    Some of the band clamps can be tricky to get at depending on how they're oriented.

    First out was the crossover tube.


    Then came the exhaust box/extra muffler (don't know the technical term)


    With that taken care of, the straps holding the waterbox into the hull cold be removed so the water box could be lifted out.

    After getting the waterbox out I checked it out for any stray pieces of the catcon that may have gotten in there. I couldn't hear anything moving around in it except for a little water. Once it's out and you look into it you'll see that unless there is a chunk right after the entry you're not going to find it. The waterbox is separated into chambers with holes for water and exhaust to flow through so you can't just reach in there and fish around too much.

    Then the styrofoam was lifted out, and the pump tunnel could be accessed.


    Next I moved under the ski to pull the pump shoe and intake grate. I pulled the intake grate first, heating the bolts a little bit with a propane torch to loosen any thread locker.

    Here's a shot pre-removal.


    With a little heat, and steady application of force I got the grate and shoe off without any broken bolts.


    This allowed me to get a better look at the impeller.

    I was pleased to see that it looked to be in pretty good shape.

    I have a quick question. The felt strip at the back of the pump shoe, does this need to be replaced with a new felt strip, or can it just be sealed up with 4200 upon reinstallation?


    Thats where I stand right now, I'll be back in town on Sunday and have parts in the mail to come home to


    Here's the rundown on what's to come:
    Reinforcing pump tunnel-I'll be using carbon fiber and west systems epoxy. I'll also be getting some of the newer brackets for the pump shoe. Carbon fiber is coming from uscomposites.com and will be 11oz 6K .017in thickness, I think a few layers of this will strengthen the pump tunnel enough for anything I'll ever throw at it.
    Sealing pump shoe- I ordered some casting resin from uscomposites.com as well. It hardens into a hard white plastic. I'll be going the DIY route on this as well to seal the shoe.
    Intake Grate- I've got a 1200 grate in the mail, I really wanted to get rid of the stock grate and didn't want to sacrifice too much holeshot with the 800 grate although I know I could get another 1mph on top with the 800. The 1200 seems to be a reasonable all around grate for the combination lake and river riding I do.

    Well, thats it for now, thanks for reading. Any questions, comments, or feedback is always welcomed!

  2. #12
    agsbill's Avatar
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    Wow!!! For a 'Gamecock' you seem to have a handle on this.....I plan to do most of what you have already done soon!! Great POST...

    Keep up the good work....

    Bill

  3. #13
    USCME's Avatar
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    Minor Update

    Thanks Bill!
    I had a little free time after work today so I prepped the pump tunnel for reinforcing.

    Getting the factory inserts and the yamaha green goop out really isn't all that bad. A nice hammer, big pry bar, and a heat gun make quick work of it.

    Honestly, you could do it without the heatgun, but it did help soften up the goop some to get the pry bar started under the goop.

    I would heat the goop up a little bit, then start tapping the pry bar between the goop and the hull. Once I got some of this up I would move under the hull to push the brass insert up from below.


    Here's a shot from below, I threaded the pump shoe bolt into the insert a little bit, then would tap on the bolt head with a hammer to press the insert out and up into the hull.


    Once I got going it didn't take too long and I had a nice pile of yamaha goop and crummy inserts on my workbench instead of in the ski


    Next I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut back the hexagonal protrusions that held the inserts in place.


    Then took a wire wheel to the pump tunnel to clean up any leftover adhesive and scuff up the surface to help the epoxy adhere


    Gave it a quick wipe down to get most of the dust from the wire wheel out of the hull and that was it for today.


    Had my carbon fiber waiting on my doorstep when I got back in town, also went by west marine today and picked up some west systems epoxy as well a 10oz tube of 5200 and another of 4200. Whenever I get some free time next I'll clean the tunnel thoroughly then lay down my reinforcing fiber using RX951's template.

  4. #14
    USCME's Avatar
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    Tunnel's done and Shoe is filled

    I just finished the tunnel reinforcement using the DIY method. Here's everything that was required:

    First off, big thanks to RX951 for his template, it definitely saved me a lot of time and was a huge help! Thanks for posting it up!

    For anyone else going this route, here's a link to the template.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...nel%20template

    The heart of this reinforcement was the carbon fiber. I used a 6K 5HS weave, 11oz for a 50" by 36" section from www.uscomposites.com. I had a great experience with uscomposites, they shipped my order out very quickly with great customer support and interaction, I highly recommend them.


    To bond the fiber to the hull I used west systems epoxy. It seems to have had great reviews and bonds to the SMC quite well.

    I used the 105 resin with 206 (slow cure) hardener. I mainly went for the slow cure just for the longer pot life. The acetone was for cleaning the hull prior to application, painters tape to mask everything off and a mixing cup and brush. I highly recommend getting the pumps for the epoxy, makes mixing a lot simpler and cleaner, 1 pump for each automatically disperses the two parts in the proper ratio, no guess work here.

    Not pictured, but I ended up just getting a lot of cheap brushes and using solo cups to mix the epoxy. The 206 hardener had a pot life of about 25 minutes, so I had to mix a few small batches of the epoxy throughout the reinforcement for each layer and went through a few brushes. I let each layer dry to a 'tacky' feel before applying the next.
    Rubber gloves are a must for this work too.

    On a side note, if I were to do it again, I would probably use the 205 fast acting hardener and just mix a separate small batch of epoxy for each layer. This would let each layer cure faster before putting the next layer on, just be ready with numerous mixing cups and cheap brushes on hand.

    Mask everything you don't want epoxy to get on with painters tape.


    Print out your template, tape together the two sides, and test fit in the hull.


    I went ahead and cut out all of my sections of carbon fiber before applying any.
    First section cut


    Next give the surface to be reinforced a good wipedown with acetone or any other quality high strength cleaner. Once clean, mix up a small batch of epoxy and brush a layer onto the tunnel area, then apply one of the fiber cutouts. Carbonfiber can be pretty tricky to work with, be careful around the edges as the weave can pull apart relatively easily. This was my first time working with composites and was definitely a learning experience.

    Let this layer cure some and then brush on more epoxy and apply the next layer, repeat for as many layers as you plan to use.

    Here's my tunnel still wet right after I finished. I know it's not very pretty and I'm definitely not winning any 'best looking tunnel' awards but I know its going to be VERY strong and I doubt I'll have any tunnel cracking in the future.


    Be sure to completely cover the area where the pump shoe brackets go.


    Let the tunnel cure to it's full hardness and you're done.

    When ordering from uscomposites I also picked up some casting resin to fill the shoe, it was about $20 for 32 total ounces of a resin called Easy-Flo 60 which dries to a hard white plastic. This is very similar to the Alumilite I've seen some people on here use.


    I mixed small batches of the resin at a time as it only had a 2.5 minute pot life. It fully dries in 30 minutes which was pretty nice when filling one side of the shoe then waiting for it to cure so you can turn the shoe over and fill another side.

    Empty shoe, mixing container, painters tape, and casting resin.


    Be sure to clean the shoe very well before filling so the resin has a debris free surface to bond to. Also, mask off all of the threaded holes on the shoe, I can imagine it being a real pain to clean this stuff out of a threaded hole once it solidifies. There are also two small holes in the bottom of two of the top side cavities, make sure to tape over these so the resin doesn't just flow out of the bottom of these pockets.


    Then mix up your first batch and start pouring, the neater you are here the less cleanup you have later.
    Top side filled


    Bottom side filled


    Back end filled


    I was able to fill the whole shoe for $20 with the 32oz kit and had a few ounces left over, this was much better than paying $60 for the kit and pretty easy

    This is where I stand right now, I'll have to sand some of the resin filled areas of the shoe smooth and flush with the shoe surface before installing. Let me know any questions/comments you guys have, I can't wait to get this thing back on the water!

  5. #15

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    Great write ups great pics and explanation. I vote for a couple edits on explanations and quotes from older psots added to this then maybe a mod could rename the thread "Got a new GPR? Follow this thread before you ask anything!" good job and really clean! Always nice to see someone else who takes care of the thigns like this before they go wrong!

  6. #16
    USCME's Avatar
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    Rich, huge thanks for the compliments! I'm game and can edit/add some things explaining why these modifications are suggested/necessary for any gpr owner as well as some more helpful links. Any and all suggestions, comment, critiques, are welcomed, I'd really like to get this thread informative enough to be stickied as a guide for new gpr owners! Thanks to everyone who has read or replied here, help me make this thread better!

    I'm traveling for work this week so I won't be doing anymore work on the ski until this weekend, but I'll have my laptop in the evenings.

  7. #17
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    nice build and write up... keep`em coming!
    and don`t forget to change out the tunnel/drive shaft hose...


  8. #18
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyGPR View Post
    nice build and write up... keep`em coming!
    and don`t forget to change out the tunnel/drive shaft hose...
    Yup.... my suggestion, go to Lowes and get the nylon reinforced clear hose. Cut it to length, drop it in a pot of very hot water for a few minutes to make it pliable, then work it on (don't forget to put the clamps on first!). Clamp it down while it's hot, not too tight; once it cools off, tighten it up again, and you will never have to worry about it. Looks great too. I use a lot of this stuff on my skis.


  9. #19
    USCME's Avatar
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    Thanks Andy and Smitty, I was planning on using the Gate's hose and didn't think about the Lowe's nylon reinforced hose, I think I'll use that, and thanks for the warm water tip for getting it on.

    I plan to add some information to this thread soon and can't wait to get back in the garage this weekend Stay tuned for updates

  10. #20
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    love the thread keep it up. cant wait to do these myself. just need to get a running ski before making it more reliable i guess.

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