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Thread: Tech Library

  1. #11
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Bilge Kit part 1

    Bilge Kit install this is from a 94 kit. I wouldn't use the exit locations (page 5), but the wiring and pump mounting is all here.
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  2. #12
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Bilge Kit Part 2

    I put my exit as close as I could to the same location as my SLX without removing the rear grab bar cause I'm lazy like that and didn't want to take it off.
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  3. #13
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Factory port specs

    Factory port specs
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  4. #14
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Some engine specs

    Some engine specs, I scanned 3 pages. The third one I did twice and tried to convert it's format. Maybe I should have done that on all the other files??? see what happens I guess.

    Edit: OK guy, I guess I figured out how to scan and convert to jpg. That was tough, just change the file type when you do save as DUH! Sorry I didn't figure that out sooner. I'll convert all my scans from now on. Maybe we can get Ph2ocraft or some guru to clean up this section and convert them old files?
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    Last edited by Polaris_Nut#1; 10-04-2006 at 10:37 PM. Reason: I guess you learn soemthing new everyday..

  5. #15
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Detonation, Carb tuning, triple pipe exhaust explanation

    These are from Factory Pipe.
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    Last edited by K447; 10-08-2013 at 12:21 PM.

  6. #16
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Converted
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  7. #17

    SL750(& others)Pump Bearing & Seals Replacement Instructions

    ’95 SL 750, How to Do, a Jet Pump Bearing/Seal Replacement

    Replacing the bearings and seals is pretty straight forward job if you have the proper tools.
    After removing the pump assy from the ski, disassemble far enough to get the rear cone off. Put it in a vise, and using the special tool (about $10.00) remove the impeller, (cc/w).

    You can now punch out the bearings and seals by using about a 6-8 inch long punch (using a good size hammer). There is ample room to move the spacer around, it seems easier to go through the middle of it vs. the side of it (Clymer) to drive them out.

    Next de-grease and clean up the housing.

    Put housing in an oven for about 45 minutes that was pre-heated to 212 degrees F.

    While this is heating, put the bearings in a freezer for about the same length of time.

    Now it is ready to assemble. The bearings will almost slide in with hand pressure; you might have to nudge with a hammer/socket (pushing on the outer race). Don’t forget to install the spacer.

    When both bearings are in, let it cool for a while. Insert the first forward seal (socket/hammer on out side edges of seal) pack marine grease in the cavity (between the seals) and install the next seal.

    Installing the impeller requires the special tool(same one used for the removal) and a torque wrench that go to 100 foot-pounds.

    Assemble the rest with all new seals.

    Total cost for this project was around $100.00(using all Polaris seals/bearings)

  8. #18
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Polaris Service bulletin's 1992-1996

    Thanks to Al
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    Last edited by beerdart; 10-24-2006 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Removed fax header

  9. #19

    SL 750 Cylinder Exchange &Oil Pump Block-Off How to

    1995 SL 750 Cylinder Exchange -Oil Pump Block-Off


    This is a Primer on accomplishing cylinder/oil pump removal, with the engine installed in a 1995 Ski……. Warning !, Warning !…… Do not attempt this unless you have an excellent supply of metric tools, sockets, extensions (both ¼ and 3/8 drive), mechanical intuition and experience. (That’s just my opinion, though)

    This work was accomplished as Preventative Maintenance. Cylinder compressions were 95 and falling. I found #1 and 3 cylinders and pistons scored and the rings were stuck/seized. It was a wise decision. Bottom end seemed tight with no rod play.

    Purchase a Clymer manual. It took me two, eight hours days to accomplish all of this.

    Cylinders:
    Everything is pretty much straight forward. Initially it was impossible to remove the piston pins. I had to fabricate a tool as described in Clymer. I started with ¼ threaded rod. It didn’t work. I then switched to 5/16, which worked OK.

    The Engine was disassembled on a Sunday. Parts were ordered on Monday. Parts arrived on Wed. Engine was ready to run on Friday. That’s pretty fast. (At least by my experience) Break in to the 90% throttle accomplished on Sunday.

    Be aware, you have to remove your cylinder studs and transfer to the new cylinders. The double nut method worked fine. (Hardware stores have a vast assortment of metric stuff)

    Installation of the piston/pins is easier if you install one clip in the piston and then install the piston/pin followed by the other clip.

    I used Permatex Hi-Tack spray on the paper gaskets and Permatex spray Copper Gasket on the metal head gaskets. (O’Reilly Auto Parts).

    Be sure to torque everything as instructed.(Seems like it takes more torque, than you would logically apply).

    I used 3 guide pins (which are longer correct size bolts with the heads cut off) to align the exhaust manifold to the cylinders in a dry fit to ensure everything was squared up before torquing the cylinder hold down nuts. Installing the exhaust and water manifold is a real bear to get all to align up. The pins help immensely.








    Oil Pump


    Removing the oil pump is do-able but…. Extremely! , Extremely ! ….difficult, as you have to use a combination of mirrors to see. Be aware the Allen head bolts that hold the pump in place are Metric. Drain the tank before you remove the oil lines.

    I first tried to seal the Block-Off Plate using an O-ring, but discovered that just would not work.( Couldn’t get hands in there). I finally used thin gasket material (per call to SBT), (made a gasket) coating all sides with RTV, which sealed OK.

    I also wired in, a 33-35 ohm resistor in the oil indicator line to fool the MFD. ( I don’t know if the engine would start if the oil tank was empty or not since my MFD does not work)

    Finally, 1st start was good..---Break-in to the 90% throttle position went well, except I had to change the sparkplugs after the 1st 20% throttle position.
    Since this was a cylinder exchange and oil pump block off I had mixed 40 oz. of oil plus squirting some oil down the carbs for good measure.

    So far so good. Everything went according to plan.

    I hope all of this helps someone.

    As a follow-up,.... this work was done last summer(2005)This Fall (2006)before winterizing compressions were 135 on all three.
    Last edited by ph2ocraft; 09-07-2008 at 10:32 AM.

  10. #20
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    28" Sponson Install

    Thank to Nut for this.
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