Change impeller on SHO

[Hammy]

Hi,
I just ordered an impeller for my FX SHO (from Jerry ^^)
How hard is it to do it from 1 to 10 ?
Any how to ?

Tks

[Carlos Thomas]

The hardest part is getting the impeller off. Mine was on like a 10. Very difficult to get off. When you put it back on, use some anti-seize.

[gordon lasiter #328]

Hi,
I just ordered an impeller for my FX SHO (from Jerry ^^)
How hard is it to do it from 1 to 10 ?
Any how to ?

Tks

remember it is reverse threaded and it is also torqued on the shaft by the force of the motor.

[mikeFZR]

there's a good tutorial on impros.com and there's a semi-decent explanation in the service manual. there's this and this too.

[mjh3ides]

1. Remove the rideplate using a ratchet with a 12mm socket(4 bolts). The speedo sender won't need to be removed.
2. Detach the 2 quick release cables from the reverse bucket & trim on the steering nozzle. Just push the spring mechanism forward & they will lift right off.
3. Remove the reverse bucket spring & remove the siphon bilge hose from the reduction nozzle.
4. Detach the steering cable from the nozzle. There is a 10mm lock nut that comes off first. Then use a 5mm hex head to remove the turnbucke screw...using a hex head ratchet attachment will make this much faster.
5. Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the pump.
6. There will be 2 pry points on the side of the pump where you can pry the nozzle & pump off with a large flathead screwdriver. It is sealed with silicone from the factory, so a little force will be necessary to separate it. You won't need to remove the reverse bucket assembly from the nozzle. It will come off in one piece. Once that's off, you can simply pull the whole pump/driveshaft/prop assembly out of the ski.
7. Follow the instructions in this thread to remove the impeller: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=113288 You will need a good vice, a spline holding tool(available in the online store) & a 27mm box wrench for removing the stock prop...preferably 6 pt if you can find one. I could only find that size in 12pt. A little wrench like the one in the diagram aint gonna cut it...you'll need a breaker bar. Make sure to coat the threads of the new impeller & inside of the noze cone with liberal amounts of anti-seize, so it won't get corroded to the shaft for future removal. Also, remember it's a reverse thread, so you'll be turning clockwise for removal...if the vice is on you left, pull down towards you.
8. Before reassembly, remove all the black silicone from the ridges where the pump mates to the wear ring & reduction nozzle. I use a bass bristle wire brush drill attachment for this. I prefer Threebond 1211 for sealing it back up because it's easy to remove if you pull it apart again in the future. Just be careful not to get silicone in the port in the pump that feeds the cooling system.
9. For reinstallation of the 4 14mm pump bolts, use thread sealant(permatex or Loctite 572) to prevent water from getting in there & causing corrosion. For the rest of the harware blue(242) Loctite is fine. The pump bolts should be torqued to 29 ft/lbs & ride plate bolts to 14 ft/lbs.

[mikeFZR]

also, here's a nice write up Jerry did.

[Hammy]

...This is why I LOOOOVVEEE this forum ^^ Thank you for the feedback

[SHOdude]

I can't find his thread, but I used Duke's technique. I also have the luxury of watching him do it living close by.

I tried it myself last weekend, get the right tools NO VISE and I did it very easily the first time.

I haven't read Jerry's thread entirely, but from the first few posts, that looks good too.

[Azone]

Anybody have any luck using a 1 1/16 in. wrench for removing a stock prop vs the 27mm? The 1 1/16 seems to fit pretty good. I only ask because I am getting ready to change props and have not had luck finding a 27mm.

[2fast4u]

Anybody have any luck using a 1 1/16 in. wrench for removing a stock prop vs the 27mm? The 1 1/16 seems to fit pretty good. I only ask because I am getting ready to change props and have not had luck finding a 27mm.

As long as it's a six point boxed end wrench your are good to go. Do not use a twelve point boxed end wrench!