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  1. #41
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What battery gap are you talking about?


    The East-Penn Deka ETX16LM is slightly shorter than the stock lead-acid battery, but it comes with a plastic spacer that I modified to stack on top of the battery.

    In a pinch, you can stack almost any non-conductive material on top to make the battery height match what your battery mount requires.

    Awesome pictures k! The gap I was talking about is the gap from the bottom of the top bracket to the positive battery terminal. These pictures are exactly what I needed. Apparently I am missing the red boot for that terminal and the plastic cover that goes over everything before the top bracket sits on everything.


    The sea-volt battery from west marine is the same size as yours, and it has the height spacer. I didn't try cutting the corner out. At least I now know what to do! The second I dropped that battery in she started right up. It can't be a stator problem or there is now way it would have been wridden all day right?

    Thanks again K! I don't think I can't thank you enough man.

  2. #42
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Had some more fun with it. Although, i have had it stall out once on idle (while cold) other than that she seems to be running great!

    Oh yeah, anyone know where i can get one of the little plastic domes that goes over the circuit breaker? One popped off while i was changing the battery and I can't find it!!!???

  3. #43
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilman573 View Post
    ...I have had it stall out once on idle (while cold) she seems to be running great!
    Even the fuel injected engines should be allowed to warm up before running them hard. My own Ficht machines will sometimes be a little cranky when cold, but only for a minute or so.

    The key with any 2-stroke PWC engine is to not ignore changes in the way it is running. If something doesn't seem right, pay attention and get it corrected.

    Small problems are much easier fix right away, before they become big problems

  4. #44
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Yeah, it takes a couple of minutes to get out to the bay, so after she is started I consider that the warm up. After she is warm, she runs great!!

  5. #45

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    ok after reading all of this im a lil confused as usual . so im just gonna ask i have a 1998 sltx 1050 the original solenoid has gone bad (black with metal body 2 wire plus terminals ) so can anyone give me the part number for the latest (all black plastic version )
    and i guess i need the wiring kit that clips into the new version solenoid part # for that also where can i get this at thanks for your help

  6. #46
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave the wave View Post
    ok after reading all of this im a lil confused as usual . so im just gonna ask i have a 1998 sltx 1050

    the original solenoid has gone bad (black with metal body 2 wire plus terminals ) so can anyone give me the part number

    ... also where can i get this?...
    Yes, you are confused

    Your 1998 Polaris has the solenoid inside the electrical box, not outside the box like the later generation Virage/Genesis/MSX. Only the external solenoid has the different versions - those do not apply to your model.

    The start solenoid for your 1998 SLTX is
    3240204 SWITCH, MAGNETIC

    Item 13 in the diagram


    Located inside the electrical box (item 37 is this diagram)


    Parts sources list can be found in the links from my signature

  7. #47
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Haven't had a chance to update in a while. After recieving the diode kit from K447 and installing new fuel hose from the safety bulletin, the dock where this sits was completed. Dropped it in, had a hell of a time keeping it started for the first few minutes, it would bog out almost like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Had what looked to be some issues with the battery as it would dip to about 10.4-5 while cranking.

    After i finally got it running smoothly at an idle, i took it out. Had a blast with it for about an hour. Messed around in the wake of a baot, stopped to splash some water on my face and bam. It stalled out and that was all she wrote. couldn't get her started, so i had to be towed back. I made sure we went nice and slow, and checked to see if any water got in there when i was being towed back, and they were dry as a bone.

    Changed the battery to an AGM style battery, still no start. I am going to have to do the no spark checks with voltages, but my money is on the ECU being burned out. bummer. I just wish i could get a copy of the polaris software. I am pretty computer inclined, and can work on circuit boards. I just wish i could hook my own laptop up for diagnostics!

  8. #48
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2&4strokepolaristech View Post
    ... newest version of the Polaris solenoid. It is a BRP solenoid like the old one.

    This one is even better because it is completely sealed unit and no chance for water to get inside...

    So now this is the third generation of solenoids.....
    1) Black with a metal back (no diode) Polaris number 4010858
    2) Brown with a metal back (internal diode) Polaris part number 4011043
    3) Black plastic one piece body (internal diode)
    What is the current BRP part number for the one piece black solenoid?


    Update: I think the Sea-Doo (BRP) part number for the most current version of this start solenoid (relay) is 278-002-347
    Replaces BRP part numbers 278-001-766, 278-000-513, 278-001-802 and 278-001-376


    Current generation all-plastic black color body solenoid. Best choice for reliability.
    BRP (Sea-Doo) part number 278-002-347
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	278002347[1].jpg 
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    Previous generation updated Brown body color solenoid, with metal backing plate. Works much better then the original solenoids, but not quite as good as the all-plastic version.
    Polaris part number 4011043
    Name:  278001802[1].jpg
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    Original black body solenoid with metal backing plate. Unreliable, tends to fail at the seal and allow water to enter and corrode the internals. If you see the seal around the metal plate has swollen that is a sign that it is about to fail.
    Polaris number 4010858
    Do not wait for this solenoid to fail, replace it. When it fails, it may continue to crank the engine even after you release the Start button. This can result in damage to the engine, the starter, and possibly an electrical fire.
    Name:  solenoid 225.jpg
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Size:  7.9 KB
    Last edited by K447; 03-29-2011 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Added Sea-Doo/BRP solenoid part numbers, photos


  9. #49
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    So I just wanted to update this thread to keep useful information in it. Last season i had more than a few troubles with the Virage. The season started out great, rode it a few weekends but the battery always had to be 100% fresh off the charger. Anything less and it would take forever, if it would even start. This was even on a new AGM style battery. Voltage was always good, was above 10.5 when cranking. I went through all the tests for resistance etc and everything pointed toward the EMM.

    It finally got to the point where it just didn't want to kick over, it would crank forever.... It sat until the end of the season where, of course, it started right up for the winterization. Go figure.

    So i go through the whole ski this spring, it was a nice warm winter here and we were riding in February, just not on this ski. Again, it wouldn't start. Pulled the plugs and spark although probably not enough and one plug was wet while the other wasn't. Decided it was time to stop screwing around and send the EMM off to DFI. Spoke to Chet, really nice guy. The emm was in such bad condition outside ( original cooling lines failed and sprayed salt water all over the emm for who knows how long ) it took almost 2 months to get it back! But the second i put it back in, she started right up and runs up to 47mph at almost 6700 rpm gps'd. Not too shabby for a three seater 800 di!


    Beautiful on the bay at 7:00am...

    Not sure if any of this helps but i have read a ton of threads like this trying to figure out what it was on mine. Hopefully this can help someone else trouble shoot their problems!

  10. #50
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.
    Quote Originally Posted by lilman573 View Post
    So I just wanted to update this thread to keep some useful information in it.

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