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  1. #11
    Makesumwake's Avatar
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    Also, go you guys have any tips for doing gelcoat repairs.
    Im not trying to spray it, just paint it and sand, just to fix areas that are spiderwebbing.

    Black blends pretty easy i understand or do i still need to color match to some extent?


  2. #12
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Are you going to be grinding the spider webs out and filling them? You should. just putting gelcoat over it, is like putting a new thru hull bearing on the coupler that was wasted and you never fixed the bad crank bearing! Grind, flare,fill,sand.then apply gelcoat. thats the way you want to do it. if its under the water, you should use vinyl ester bondo, not polyester bondo from murrays.lol

    The acetone You can thin it up to 20% with acetone. It will be very watery at 20. I'd start at 10% and see how that flows out. use a foam brush. bring a few, they die quick if doing many spots.. Brush both ways and stop. Let it flow out before it hardens. You can block it later.

    if you burn thru, do it again until you dont burn thru after sanding smooth. Takes a little know how to know when is enough! comes with practice.

    Let it dry completly rock hard before sanding it. If its put on thick , you.ll need to put a mold release on top of it to keep the heat in to cook it properly.Otherwise, don't worry about it. 5 to 10 mils is fine. 20 would be thick. Put a light on it to cook it if its cold where your working.

    If you sand to early, you'll see little roly polys in your sanding. then the paper will clog with goey black stuff that doesnt come off the paper. thats uncured gelcoat! more light!.lol you can sand your way thru that. thats mostly cold gelcoat.. if its on thick anyways. you'll get to the good stuff under that. its hard to explain typing.lol

    You can also sand this progressively untill it looks like glass like the hull! just a super fine line will be left. thats it.

    Sand the are progressively with different grits like before on the paint. then use finesse-it or micro-finishing compound to make it shine. I like using ther fineese-it. its white and the micro-finishing compoung is tan color.

    Yeah you need to wheel it on to make it shine. Just rubbing it wont shine.

    If you really want to get rid of the tiny line left. you can,, but its very diffucult to do. I'ts called cold-wheeling. You microsand the line with 2000-3000 grit. until it almost dissappears, then you use the wheel on it in a such a way to make the new gelcoat, cover the scratch left by actually melting the new over the old.. (on that tiny line.) You must use the wheels direction of movement to roll over the gel over the line.. It will dissappear if done cold! Not heating the surface!!. thats why its called cold- wheeling. If you reheat the area any time after this is done. the line will come back and youll end up chasing it all over the ski.

    If confused, dont try it. you could ruin everything/I'd have to show ya in person.


    I'd just leave it be, esspecialy diffucult in creases and curves. I use to do it to the Dodge Viper to blend in "spot painting" from the body shop.

    Black is Black! no matching required.

  3. #13
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Spraying rattle cans for a paint job---Hmmm.. Maybe for the rubrails,bumpers,seat,little stuff is ok. You should be able to spray them evenly and get a couple good coats.

    If your thinking of spraying the whole ski with cans, it will only turn out nice if you use a lot of cans.

    Most spray can are 12 oz.. The amount of actual paint in there is about 4-6 oz's. not very much. The rest is propellant. At 5.00-7.00 a can nowadays. that will get expensive quick.


    And the down side is, you cant really blend the stuff to easily like you can with a gun. You'll end up with start/stop areas with overspray. it will look horrible,lol The only way to fix it, is too wetsand everything after and wheel it out with compound. I'm guessing if your interested in spray can painting, then you probably dont have a wheel or compound either.

    A good wheel is like 200.00 plus the fineese it and wool pad. another 50.00.

    And... after your done with the black(it will not have UV protevtion in it and it will fade quickly. You'll have to spray everything with clear too. then wetsand maybe again after that. Just doesn't make sense to do it.

    Prep is NO.1. what you see now, is exactly what youll see later.But a different color.lol

  4. #14
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    MY stickers were an absolute pain in the ass to remove. scratching, razor blades and every thing in a bottle in the shed!. nothing worked. including the heat gun.

    Much easier to get the 3-m eraser. you can take off a stripe of a 25 foot boat 2 inches high all around the boat in 15 mins tops. Then wash with sunnyside adhesive remover. it works like magic!.
    Last edited by bowsniper; 01-29-2010 at 08:57 PM.

  5. #15
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Here is a good deal on a buffer $50 and works great. I have this one and love it.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623

    The cheap orbital buffer / polishers wont cut it for buffing out paint.

  6. #16
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    [/URL] heres a video of the stripe removal for graphics. this is 1 type 3-m sells. I use vanilla looking ones that go on an arbor that you can add or subtract as many disc erasers as necessary. They come 25 in a pak i believe, the wider you make it, the wider the graphics you can remove. 2 doesnt get it.

    Bear in mind , that I use a makita wheel with the correct adapter/ 3-m sell s that too.

    Goes much faster. but this will give you an idea how it works in real time. it leaves little rubber pieces behind if you can see that in the vid. Wont hurt gelcoat or paint. Use adhesive remover to clean up the residue.


    The only problem with that 50.00 buffer is, the adapter doesnt hold a super buff pad.(wool) they screw on to an adapter with a washer and a rubber backing pad, thats the mainstay of bodyshops. Also the bonnets are tied one. Not really what ya want. they are not the greatest but will work. I think i blew mine up along with 3 other sawsalls harbor freight sells.lol

    That wheel for 50.00 would work great for rubbing out and polishing or even waxing the hull after.


    Plus, both adapters work on a quality higher end wheel. I doubt if either would bolt up to that.
    Last edited by bowsniper; 01-29-2010 at 08:59 PM.

  7. #17
    btldigger's Avatar
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    It has a thick rubber back with hook and loop on it. I actually have the wool buffs like your talking about. The cheesy tied on ones that come with it are not worth putting on. Its not a pro grade tool but its not bad for a dyi job.

  8. #18
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Yep!. thats what i was talking about ! Excellent. You can use it then with great results. It's light too. I'm pretty hard on mine. I wheel out 40 foot boats with it. So it needs to stand up to lots of abuse. and interestingly enough, the MAKITA brand is awesome. last forever, smooth bearings, runs awesome and powerful. It's a winner. Ive tried them all! lol Try it upside down and see how ya like that! lol whata a pita. 1 handed no less on some bows of the boats off a ladder is fun too.lol


    Heres what I use for wheeling out boats, cars, jetskis,ete.. 230.00 plus the wool pad and hookngrab pad. I have wrapped it in foam rubber on some boats for hard to get places that may bump the ski or boat. But usually can get around everything pretty safely!. Be careful on the edges. they burn instantly!. You'll wreck it before you know ya did it.


    I have cut the cord on mine so that that plug wont rip around n hit me if it gets hooked on something. It becomes detached instantly and stops. Kinda a safety feautre for it. A mod so to speak! lol Saves the boat from a beating from the wheel wrapping around n cleat n bouncing!

    Well if yours has the right size on the end. my bad,, iv'e seen them on other ones that dont match and have no adapter. I wasn't slamming your wheel. i just burn thru them.
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  9. #19
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    20 Oz. High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun

    High volume, low pressure for high output with lower overspray. Better for the environment, helps you save money on material costs.



    • Best mix of paint and air pressure
    • Uses most oil based paints
    • Adjustable fan pattern and volume control
    • Includes cleaning kit, wrench and barbed inlet fitting
    Required air supply: 1-3 HP compressor; Required air pressure: 50-70 PSI; Air consumption: 6 CFM; Output: 200-300 ccs per minute; Nozzle size: 1.5mm; Cup capacity: 20 oz; Air inlet: 1/4"-18 NPS
    Weight: 1.5 lbs.



    ITEM 47016-6VGA


    $24.99 $14.99

    This is the gun I used on the Jetski. they work great. Sometimes on sale for 9.99 at xmas. I bought 3 of them. what a deal. they are throws aways pretty much. I used a 5-hp compressor.
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  10. #20
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Heres what you use to pilsh the hull with the wheel after sanding with 1500 or 2000 to get that brillent shine.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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