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  1. #1

    No bite on GTX. Yours?

    I'm just wondering how much "bite" other users' GTXs have out of the hole. I have to be very careful when I come out of the hole. If I get it above between 5 and 6 thousand RPMs, it'll cavitate.... bad. If just feels like the acceleration is lax. As some saw on a post before, I was figuring that all of my equipment is bad, and that I'm interested in upgrading. But, if this is how they are... .I'll just leave it be and sell it off.

    I got a three seater to leagally pull a skier or a tube or what have you. But if feels like it won't even pull a sick whore off the pot. With myself and another on just riding, it's really slow until it planes, then it will actually go.

    I'm still concerned even after planing out that something just isn't right. I reach my top RPMs of 7500ish around 40 mph. The craft is still accelerating, but the RPMs are maxed.

    So I'm just wondering... mine is a 03 GTX SC... how about you?

  2. #2
    Tennessee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Mt. Juliet, Tn
    Might check to see if your impeller has too much clearance or damage. It only takes a little wear on the ring and performance goes down. Since you only have 185hp to start with it might be even worse.

  3. #3
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Long Island, NY
    you need a new wear ring on that machine...(appx 50 dollar part) it should grab out of the hole no matter what. you should be able to ride it yourself and peg the throttle to the bars and not experience cavitation.

  4. #4
    Appreciate your help, guys.

    The wear ring is brand new. I put it on 2 weeks ago and only took it out one weekend.

    Maybe I installed it wrong. ON this ol' plastic pump, I got 4 screws, 2 on one side, and 2 on the opposite side, that hold my wear ring in place. I noticed that when I took my old ring out, they had taken either a saudering gun or SOMEthing and melted out 4 little divits in the ring so that the scews could go in. It would have to have them because if I put the screws back in without the holes, it would squeeze the ring and the impeller would scratch against it pretty rough. So I didn't melt em out, I just took a drill and drilled em out.

    I know what you're thinking now: "what a dumb ass. He drilled through his wear ring." But, I didn't. The inside of the ring was un touched. Just drilled in about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch. Just enough to where I could put the screws in and they not push down on my ring.

    This is the composite ring and I need no freezer to get my ring out. It fits... looks like perfect, but it will come out with just grabbing it with your hand and pulling it out. I thought about putting a bead of locktite all the way around it, but I was affraid it would hurt the composite pump housing. Either way, I installed the wear ring to what looked like would be a pretty good installation. No {insert favorite minority} - rigging.

    Ok... I said all that to say this... I have no bite above my earlier said RPM range from an idle. But its worse after the machine has been running a minute or 2. The only thing I can think of is that all of that "friction" in the pump (water passing at very high speeds) is causing the plastic parts to heat up and expand a bit. It's during these isntances when I reach my RPM max to early. If I just shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute, if that, I gain back a little bite. Not much at all, just enough to barely notice it.

    So I ask, could I put the stainless in the composite and lock tite it in there without much damage to the housing if I ever decide to get it out? I wouldn't lock it at all if I thought the ring wouldn't spin around with the impeller.

    And if my wear ring has already worn out in one weekend of riding, I'm pissed. I hate paying $50 for a piece of schedule 80 PVC.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Louisville KY.
    You need to get a metal pump . I would go through wear ring in about 3-4 hrs. with that POS plastic pump . Did it get better when you first took it out ? How was the impeller ? any nicks or dings ?

  6. #6
    Tired and Old Pale Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    on the move
    Travis: that`s freaky! Is the impeller nose cone on the prop? did it ride up the drive shaft.
    This is wierd: awhile back was a thread about removing the nose cone/seal...

    so I tried it and my GTX no longer did just fine, but the nose cone kept coming off and then the ski would cavitate pretty good from the hole shot!...PR...

  7. #7
    The nose cone had ridden up once before. I put it back like it was supposed to go when I changed the wear ring before. It quite possibly could have done it again. I'll probably take it by my shop and snatch it off before I go to the lake tomorrow. Your "pre-nose-cone-removal" is very familiar with me, so I'll try it and see. I saw that thread even before I changed the wear ring last and I forgot about it when I put it all back together.

    Trimer, I really want a metal pump, preferrably given to me, if you know what I mean. Sea-Doo is awfully proud of their product if you get my drift. As far as my impeller goes, I would assume it has normal wear on it. A few nicks. It's not smooth like a new one would be by a long shot, but from my eyes it doesn't look like it would cause THIS bad of a cavitation problem. However, I've been wrong before.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Elysian Fields,Tx
    you might want to look at the pump itself for a split. Thats what happened to mine and thats when i changed it out for the metal pump. That plastic pump just won't hold up to this HP.

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