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  1. #41
    Stop staring at my tits
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    Not sure what Riva charges, but if it like some of the others, it will be nicely under their price.

  2. #42

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    I bought some 1/4" ID line and it slides right on and off of the carb T's with no pressure or trouble at all. The line fits snuggly onto the pulse fitting, however.

    Is 1/4" the right size?

  3. #43
    1131 Adam E.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akjose View Post
    I bought some 1/4" ID line and it slides right on and off of the carb T's with no pressure or trouble at all. The line fits snuggly onto the pulse fitting, however.

    Is 1/4" the right size?
    Yes, 1/4 is fuel/pulse line.

    Adam

  4. #44
    Stop staring at my tits
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    IIRC the factory line is actually Metric in size. It may be 5.5mm? I forget how many mm ID it is.

    So 1/4" will at times be slightly loose. I use Otiker (sp) clamps and don't worry about it.

  5. #45
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    Fuel lines are metric...for all Yamaha skis


  6. #46
    1131 Adam E.'s Avatar
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    Bill,

    Gave my GP 44SBN Carb's a "Bill's Best" cleanup. I removed the choke plates, installed primer fittings, polished the brass/aluminum parts, and rebuilt them. After going through this process I have a few questions:

    1. Mikuni's manual is pretty confusing for the 44 carb. Which parts am I supposed to use for my rebuild? How do you know if you have the 'late' style carb? Can you point out which ones are needed.

    2. What are the tell tale signs for a new needle/seat. How do they go bad and how do you identify if they are bad? What is the function of a needle and seat?

    3. Pulse lines. I have been told that standard fuel line is O.K. for this. In your years of carb building has fuel line held up for carbs?

    4. What is the advantage to adjustable linkage? How do you position the throttle discs so that they have full ROM? With the current linkage the #2 carb is slightly open.

    Attached are pictures of my rebuilt carbs.

    Thanks,

    Adam
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #47

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    1. Mikuni's manual is pretty confusing for the 44 carb. Which parts am I supposed to use for my rebuild? How do you know if you have the 'late' style carb? Can you point out which ones are needed.

    Adam, I ran into the same problem with the parts list. Very confusing, especially if you take all three carbs apart while waiting on parts to arrive and you dont have anything to look at while putting them back together like I did.
    I came up with this though:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Bill.jpg 
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ID:	183239

    4. What is the advantage to adjustable linkage? How do you position the throttle discs so that they have full ROM? With the current linkage the #2 carb is slightly open.

    -Remove Linkage Rod.
    -Back out the idle adjuster screw on carb 1 all the way. (this should allow carb one to shut completely).
    -Undo the allen screws on the linkage arm on carbs 2 and 3. (1/2 turn should do).
    -Manually close carb 2's throttle valve.
    -While holding closed, tighten allen screws.
    -Repeat for carb 3.
    -Reattach linkage.

  8. #48
    1131 Adam E.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akjose View Post
    1. Mikuni's manual is pretty confusing for the 44 carb. Which parts am I supposed to use for my rebuild? How do you know if you have the 'late' style carb? Can you point out which ones are needed.

    Adam, I ran into the same problem with the parts list. Very confusing, especially if you take all three carbs apart while waiting on parts to arrive and you dont have anything to look at while putting them back together like I did.
    I came up with this though:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Bill.jpg 
Views:	177 
Size:	11.8 KB 
ID:	183239

    4. What is the advantage to adjustable linkage? How do you position the throttle discs so that they have full ROM? With the current linkage the #2 carb is slightly open.

    -Remove Linkage Rod.
    -Back out the idle adjuster screw on carb 1 all the way. (this should allow carb one to shut completely).
    -Undo the allen screws on the linkage arm on carbs 2 and 3. (1/2 turn should do).
    -Manually close carb 2's throttle valve.
    -While holding closed, tighten allen screws.
    -Repeat for carb 3.
    -Reattach linkage.
    Thanks AK.

    Adam

  9. #49
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    The linkage rod needs to be in place, when adjusting and syncronizing the butterfly valve's.

  10. #50
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam E. View Post
    The carbs I bought came with the standard linkage, but I'm looking to get the adjustable kind. This is the kind that came stock with the choke plates. If anyone has this setup laying around I'd like to get my hand on it.

    Adam
    the gp 1200 carbs are adjustable as is, besides the chokes had the same linkage piece as the carbs.

    loosen the two allen caps on #2 and #3 and reach inside and move the throttle plate where you want it.

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