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  1. #11
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Depends on the ski. I mounted mine in the old Choke cable hole on my 97 GP1200. I had to drill the hole out bigger first.


  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by explorer6764 View Post
    Most people install it on the return line so if you have a air leak within the primer system you will not lean out and fry your motor,yes it does say to install on the reserve line but most people know it is safer on the return.
    I have found my boats hard to prime when connected to the return line because there does not always seem to be fuel in those, so I have found a safe way to put it in the RESERVE line. Use a full thru size tee to splice in the reserve line, then on the line to the plunger install one of the check valves from the oil pump lines you probably took off when you went premix. The check valve protects from an air leak in the plunger seals or checks from letting air back in the reserve line and also makes the primer work better too.
    PS: OsideBill gave me the idea to use an oil line check when I asked him where I could find some kind of little check valve. It works great. THis idea works real well on dual feed line fuel setups too.

  3. #13
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    ^^^Thats a great idea

  4. #14
    Great info on this site.

  5. #15
    This instruction should be included as mandatory in SBTs crappy primer plunger instructions. Thanks for posting this last year LT.

    I used this post yesterday to add the old oil pump check valve (from one of the blown motor skis I bought this year) to my new primer. Here is a video of the install:





    The ski is the Yamaha SUV which has the front and rear seat sections. The rear seat section is very quick and easy to remove so I chose to use this location to install the new primer plunger. It puts it in a very easy to install area, out of sight, will allow me to later remove the previously installed primer plunger and strap a set of carbs that have the choke plates back on.

    IMO (and I'm sure it is smattered all over this site) a much better configuration for those who are going to pre-mix AND want a primer plunger is the following (and thanks to Boudin for the idea on leaving choke plates on).

    1. Buy ONLY a primer plunger if you buy one from SBT or Ebay and get the rest from Autozone or wherever...don't waste your money on an entire kit. The parts from SBT in the kit suck! You will also need to purchase the fuel line adapter "T" that will plug into the primer line and the larger fuel line, some legit fuel line for the primer (the clear plastic junk that SBT sends dries up so quickly and so hard that it is difficult to work with if you have to mess with it later and I question if it ends up leaking air after drying out) and 2 other smaller "T's" to feed the primer fuel into the flame arrester nipples.

    2. DON'T remove the choke plates! They are a pain in the rear to remove and I cannot figure out why I would want to remove the ability to choke my cold blooded 65U in the first place.

    3. Since switching to pre-mix leaves 3 perfectly vacant nipples on the bottom outside edge of the flame arrestor, simply connect the primer lines to those nipples. They sit right there above the carb anyway.

    4. For the SUV, I think a good spot for install is either right between the seat hold-downs for the rear seat (since it is so easy to remove) or it could probably easily be configured to sit where the fresh water rinse hose is located if you want to just lay that hose down in your hull to the left of the motor...if you fear drilling a hole in your ski

    5. Check the oil check valve that you choose to use from your old oil pump for flow by blowing through it to make sure it is not clogged (one of mine were completely plugged up...and probably why that motor blew in the first place). Install it 10" or so below the angled nipple on the primer with the embossed black arrow pointing toward the primer for flow direction.

    Running the primer lines into the flame arrestor nipples also keeps the primer lines away from the hot motor which is just a bonus IMO.

    Anyway...here is a quick youtube vid I did of my install. Sorry it is so rudimentary but I don't want to take time to edit it right now.
    Last edited by macGruber; 07-25-2014 at 08:37 AM. Reason: Add video link and description of how I hooked up my SUV primer

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  7. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    This instruction should be included as mandatory in SBTs crappy primer plunger instructions. Thanks for posting this last year LT.

    I used this post yesterday to add the old oil pump check valve (from one of the blown motor skis I bought this year) to my new primer. Here is a video of the install:





    The ski is the Yamaha SUV which has the front and rear seat sections. The rear seat section is very quick and easy to remove so I chose to use this location to install the new primer plunger. It puts it in a very easy to install area, out of sight, will allow me to later remove the previously installed primer plunger and strap a set of carbs that have the choke plates back on.

    IMO (and I'm sure it is smattered all over this site) a much better configuration for those who are going to pre-mix AND want a primer plunger is the following (and thanks to Boudin for the idea on leaving choke plates on).

    1. Buy ONLY a primer plunger if you buy one from SBT or Ebay and get the rest from Autozone or wherever...don't waste your money on an entire kit. The parts from SBT in the kit suck! You will also need to purchase the fuel line adapter "T" that will plug into the primer line and the larger fuel line, some legit fuel line for the primer (the clear plastic junk that SBT sends dries up so quickly and so hard that it is difficult to work with if you have to mess with it later and I question if it ends up leaking air after drying out) and 2 other smaller "T's" to feed the primer fuel into the flame arrester nipples.

    2. DON'T remove the choke plates! They are a pain in the rear to remove and I cannot figure out why I would want to remove the ability to choke my cold blooded 65U in the first place.

    3. Since switching to pre-mix leaves 3 perfectly vacant nipples on the bottom outside edge of the flame arrestor, simply connect the primer lines to those nipples. They sit right there above the carb anyway.

    4. For the SUV, I think a good spot for install is either right between the seat hold-downs for the rear seat (since it is so easy to remove) or it could probably easily be configured to sit where the fresh water rinse hose is located if you want to just lay that hose down in your hull to the left of the motor...if you fear drilling a hole in your ski

    5. Check the oil check valve that you choose to use from your old oil pump for flow by blowing through it to make sure it is not clogged (one of mine were completely plugged up...and probably why that motor blew in the first place). Install it 10" or so below the angled nipple on the primer with the embossed black arrow pointing toward the primer for flow direction.

    Running the primer lines into the flame arrestor nipples also keeps the primer lines away from the hot motor which is just a bonus IMO.

    Anyway...here is a quick youtube vid I did of my install. Sorry it is so rudimentary but I don't want to take time to edit it right now.
    MacGruber... that is an AWESOME idea, like Tech Section Sticky Post material.

    Too bad I just ordered my $27.95 kit, the plunger is like 17 and I have the metal T from another kit when I combined skis. Dam, oh well that rocks and I will be doing this now.
    My GP760 starts the second I hit the button, but is sluggish after a week of sitting. I want primer, but I also want my choke and now I don't have to pull the carbs.

  8. #17

    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
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    17
    can someone post a new link to the video in this post....seems to be an old URL?

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