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  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxPro1200 View Post
    i actually have a spare set of the metal plates already made.

    the cardboard patterns as well, and enough spare material to make an additional 2 sets of plates
    Would you be willing to scan the pieces on a scanner, and post the images, along with some dimensional info?

    I suspect that if you put together some seat repair 'kits', there would be buyers


  2. #12
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    $$

    a lot of work went into this.for me to kit it i'd want like $200.00 per kit comlpete w/hardware.most people wouldn't want to uncover the seat,so a very dense and hard aluminum is need to accept tapped threads.the material i used is aircraft grade,very tough and hard to cut.my goal was to show how the seats can be repaired and we can keep these polari going. besides if somebody wants to slip me a 20 i'll send the plate material with the patterns on it

  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxPro1200 View Post
    a lot of work went into this.
    for me to kit it i'd want like $200.00 per kit complete w/hardware.

    most people wouldn't want to uncover the seat, so a very dense and hard aluminum is need to accept tapped threads. the material i used is aircraft grade, very tough and hard to cut.

    my goal was to show how the seats can be repaired and we can keep these polari going.

    besides if somebody wants to slip me a 20 i'll send the plate material with the patterns on it
    Options are good.

    For some folks, spending $200 for 'ready to install' parts to get their seat fixed might be reasonable.

    For others, $20+ to get the uncut flat material, with pattern guidelines to work with, would be worthwhile.

    If someone is recovering their seat at the same time, backing out the staples around the back section might be doable, especially if it meant the metal cutting/shaping/installing aspect might be easier.

    Your photo guide in this thread is already a welcome contribution

    BTW, do you know exactly what model years used this particular seat design?

  4. #14
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    models

    the 1998slxh when converted to a 1 piece seat,
    the 1999 slh-slx
    the 2000 slh-slx-pro1200
    the 2001 slh-slx-pro1200
    the earlier its caught the better off the repair will work

  5. #15
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    kit

    i figured i already had a set of patterns cut so i spent the time and made 1 kit,its complete with all hardware for a non cover removal install and can be converted to the same setup i did with the cover removed.

  6. #16
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    pic

    the finished look
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
    New and Probably Naive!
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxPro1200 View Post
    the finished look
    Where did you get that seat covering from? It's trick! I want two for my PROs.

  8. #18

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    doug used hydro turf

  9. #19
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    seat

    i actually like the way my seat looks in the avatar,aircraft grade discs with patterns $20.00,one complete ready to install kit with latch $125.00 also have good condition blue slh cover $20.00

  10. #20
    Race, wreck, repeat delagem's Avatar
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    That is a very nice method of repair.

    I did a much simpler one today, when I discovered my seat pan was cracked, just like in the photos above.

    I epoxied the nuts back into the plastic. I actually used Gorilla Glue, the expanding polyurethane stuff. This is not for strength, it is just to locate the nuts until the repair plate is installed. I put the bolts in, with a lot of never-seez and used a dab of RTV on the end of the nut, so the Gorilla Glue didn't glue the bolt to the nut.

    Once the glue is set, I removed the bolts.

    Then, the plate (pictured below) is screwed on. I used a bit of Yamabond to hold the plastic pieces in place. The screws are countersunk.

    Finally, the original latch assembly is reinstalled, and the nuts draw tight against the aluminum stiffener plate. I put a small dab of RTV on the bolts, to act as a thread lock. Not so strong as real Loctite, but enough to prevent them from backing out from vibration.

    Total cost? 43 cents for the 4 flat head screws. (this assumes you have a jigsaw, drill & drill bits, and an old stop sign from your youth. If no road sign is available, find a kid on a skateboard, he will get you one). Total time? About 1.5 hours, not including the 4 hours wait for the epoxy to dry, holding the nuts in place.

    The only downside I see is the seat is spaced 1/8" up from the original position. I can barely notice the difference.


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