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  1. #51

    Too much water pressure while testing?

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ID:	422530Why when running the ski on city water pressure, while servicing my 2009 Yamaha Waverunner Deluxe, does water come out of the small spout fitting on the left front of the ski. (picture provided) I traced it back to the exhaust manifold housing (see pic) Is this because of high city water pressure? I ALWAYS START SKI FIRST. My city water pressure is 90 lbs. It was purring away just fine as I was doing in the driveway service, ---water running out of the bottom grate, out the back exhaust,---then it starts coming out that exterior vent ? overflow? Was I in danger of backing water up in the running engine? Hope my pictures come thru, and make visual sense.
    Thanks for the Opinions here.

    Also, after taking ALL the spark plugs out, and fogging the engine, I cranked the engine with all ignition modules wires disconnected. This was to move the oil around in the cylinders. Didn't seem to harm any mysterious electronica brain, as after then reconnecting, I did a quick short start of the engine to make sure,----all was well.
    Last edited by slman; 10-10-2017 at 04:54 PM. Reason: another question

  2. #52
    Erierunner's Avatar
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    That's just your good water pressure and it's supposed to come out. The next time you ride, you'll see water coming out if you lean over to the left a little. That's normal and an indication that you have good cooling water flow while riding. No water coming out when riding, you have a problem. No problem with backing water up as long as the engine is running.

  3. #53
    Thanks a lot for the peace of mind. You guys are great.

    LOL....never noticed that flow. Sure will look next time out in April.

  4. #54
    Thor's Avatar
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    +1 on the appreciation; we’re bringing our new 2018 VXR home from the dealer tomorrow BUT! due to no space in the garage we will be forced to park the trailered VXR outside, until Spring.

    Temps were in the single digits a couple weeks back and they’re already calling for “teens and twenties” next week so, I am kind of obsessing over winterizing the craft but, I’m under a little pressure as snow is on the way so, I’m gonna have to “hit the ground running” as soon as we get home from the dealer ...

    Questions:

    Is it possible to individually “fog” each cylinder after removing each spark plug individually WITHOUT using the plastic straw? (I actually know someone who had the straw pop out of the button head on an aerosol can of fogger and down into a snowmobile engine - it was a nightmare!)

    Also, since I think I read earlier the manual does not go into any in-depth on storage- fogging: I want to start the engine and “blip” the throttle for an instant after spraying the fogger into the one cylinder I’ve removed the spark plug from, and while the spark plug is still out of the cylinder, correct? (Just want to be sure it’s okay t9 start and run the engine with one spark plug out.)

    Definitely going to pick up a small tube of dialectic or other “anti-seize” grease and put a very light coat on the spark plug threads as well (helped a neighbor extract a stuck plug out of his lawn tractor this past summer and what an avoidable PIA that was!)

    We have an extra DelTran “smart charger” / Battery ‘Tender’ so, I’ll likely run an extension cord over to where the VXR will be parked and simply hook the smart charger right up to the battery (I am pretty sure I read a discussion here on GH where there was a consensus it is NOT necessary to disconnect the battery from the engine when connecting a smart charger to the battery. Or do I have that wrong?)

    Thanks in advance!

  5. #55
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thor View Post
    +1 on the appreciation; we’re bringing our new 2018 VXR home from the dealer tomorrow BUT! due to no space in the garage we will be forced to park the trailered VXR outside, until Spring.

    Temps were in the single digits a couple weeks back and they’re already calling for “teens and twenties” next week so, I am kind of obsessing over winterizing the craft but, I’m under a little pressure as snow is on the way so, I’m gonna have to “hit the ground running” as soon as we get home from the dealer ...

    Questions:

    Is it possible to individually “fog” each cylinder after removing each spark plug individually WITHOUT using the plastic straw? (I actually know someone who had the straw pop out of the button head on an aerosol can of fogger and down into a snowmobile engine - it was a nightmare!)

    Also, since I think I read earlier the manual does not go into any in-depth on storage- fogging: I want to start the engine and “blip” the throttle for an instant after spraying the fogger into the one cylinder I’ve removed the spark plug from, and while the spark plug is still out of the cylinder, correct? (Just want to be sure it’s okay t9 start and run the engine with one spark plug out.)

    Definitely going to pick up a small tube of dialectic or other “anti-seize” grease and put a very light coat on the spark plug threads as well (helped a neighbor extract a stuck plug out of his lawn tractor this past summer and what an avoidable PIA that was!)

    We have an extra DelTran “smart charger” / Battery ‘Tender’ so, I’ll likely run an extension cord over to where the VXR will be parked and simply hook the smart charger right up to the battery (I am pretty sure I read a discussion here on GH where there was a consensus it is NOT necessary to disconnect the battery from the engine when connecting a smart charger to the battery. Or do I have that wrong?)

    Thanks in advance!
    If the new watercraft has never been in the water nor connected to a water hose when it was test started by the dealer, there is not much point to ‘winterizing’.

    Anti-seize on the new spark plug threads? You could do that, but no hurry to do it right away. Do that after say the first ten hours. Spark plug threads are not going to suddenly seize up when stored with a dry, never run in the water engine.

    Same for fogging oil. Without water through the system, ever, corrosion is not a big worry. It should be just fine as is.

    Battery - I suggest installing a polarized pigtail lead to the battery posts. Use a good quality battery maintainer with polarized charging cord, plug it in, and let it maintain the battery.

    Battery Tender has a good reputation. Some models are also AGM battery compatible, some may not be. Some are waterproof and ok for outside exposure. Some have temperature compensation, which is important for use at extreme cold or hot temperatures, far from ‘room temperature’. Which model do you have?

    If you decide to buy a better charger, I use and recommend the BatteryMinder 128CEC model, which is excellent. They also sell the polarized, fused pigtail leads, as do Amazon and others.

    There is no problem with connecting a good quality battery charger to the battery while the battery is connected to the watercraft cables. Use a polarized pigtail to prevent accidental reverse polarity connections, or the clip falling off after you walk away.

    The battery Yamaha supplies with all their watercraft is decent quality, but it is a traditional lead-acid battery. That battery has liquid acid inside and a vent nipple which must be connected to the venting tube inside the hull.

    I much prefer the Deka ETX16 battery, which is factory sealed AGM type. Zero chance of acid venting or seepage, very robust, cannot leak and strong starting power. No venting required. Keep it well charged and it will last for years. When it comes time to replace the OEM battery, buy the Deka.

    For my own GP1800 watercraft I supplied the Deka battery to the dealer and had it installed from new. The Yamaha battery stayed at the dealer (for a credit).

    If you cannot keep the battery maintainer plugged in during storage, you can disconnect the battery and bring it inside until spring arrives. Still worthwhile to connect the charger and keep the battery at 100%, this helps maximize the battery lifespan.

  6. #56
    Thor's Avatar
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    K447, good morning and thanks for the wealth of info (really, experience)!

    Oh, I am going on assumption dealer is going to need to “hook a hose” to the craft in order to run in for whatever tenths of a first hour they need to do any data setup / PDI process, etc. If it turns out they don’t well ...

    btw, thank you again for all the other tremendous “tips” on picking up the craft, in that other query thread I started; “now is the time” for things like any extra security fobs and extra lanyards, etc. may seem like small things to experienced riders but, they are HUGE help to us first-timers!

    Also, starting a hunt for a deka, now!

  7. #57
    Erierunner's Avatar
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    I did this with a new boat years ago. I bought it in February and returned it to them in May for the dealer prep. That way, no Winterizing needed. When I bought a ski in February, they kept it in the crate until May and then I picked it up. Just a thought.

  8. #58
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    Thanks Erie ... Yowza, I remember how crazy-freezing it can get there, man!

    Thanks to this thread, I’ve got all the materials I need (with the exception of the deka battery but, it’s on the list!

    THIS ... FORUM ... ROCKS!

  9. #59
    Thank you, great post!! I just bought a 2015 yamaha svho and it is my first supercharged waverunner. Is there anything extra or specific that I should do to pro long the life of the supercharger throughout winter time? Thanks again for the awesome post

  10. #60
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    Just gotta post up another Thank You! for this thread!

    We knocked our winterization out with no “bumps” thanks to everyone’s contributions and IT’s A GREAT FEELING to take off season care of the machine that helps us decompress on top o’ the water after tough days off it.


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