1996 slt700 engine removal-do I really have to pull pump?

[Texwing]

I need to pull the engine on my 1996 slt700 3 seater..the manuals seem to be written for all 700s, and say the pump had to be pulled. The slt700 has quite a bit of room to move the engine forward when off the motor mounts, does anyone know whether I can pull this engine without removing the pump? I am not looking for extra work! thanks in advance.

[Tony]

Pulling the pump will be the easiest part of the job.

[beerdart]

The engine is mounted on studs that requires you to lift the engine up before it can be moved forward. The pump can be removed in 10 minuets. Four long bolts steering reverse and trim(If equipped) water siphon and pull the pump.

[Texwing]

Thanks guys, the manuals talk about pulling it loose, resealing it, having to get it aligned right when putting it back in, all in all in did not sound that easy. I am still unclear, though, do I have to pull the ride plate beneath the pump to pull the pump? thanks.

[starflight]

I am still unclear, though, do I have to pull the ride plate beneath the pump to pull the pump? thanks.

Nope. No need to pull the plate.

[K447]

Thanks guys, the manuals talk about pulling it loose, resealing it, having to get it aligned right when putting it back in, all in all in did not sound that easy.

I am still unclear, though, do I have to pull the ride plate beneath the pump to pull the pump? thanks.

Nope. The ride plate stays put, as does the intake grate, AND the pump base, which is sealed to the hull.

The only thing you need to remove is the four LONG bolts, then remove the nozzle assembly, then wiggle the pump body free.

Sometimes you need to apply some side-to-side leverage with a long 2x4 alongside the pump body to get it to crack the corrosion between the pump and the pump base, just don't over do it

It can take some grunting, but it will let go. Pull the pump straight back, and the drive shaft may come out with it. That is OK.

If you do not remove the pump base, then you may not need to re-align. Watch for any shims under the motor mounts, and make sure you put them back where they came from.

It might be an idea to scribe the motor mounts so you can be sure you put the engine back exactly where it came from.

[Texwing]

OK, thats a way better solution-I also read in my clymer manual that once a season the the splines on the driveshaft are supposed to be greased. I am pretty sure the previous owner of this ski was not doing that! I am still a little unclear, though, once the "rear housing" is unbolted and removed, does the "impeller shaft" just slide on back through all the bearings and stuff, or do the bearings and impeller and associated parts that it (shaft) goes through going to come with it?

[gvnitup]

Take the 4 bolts out as stated above, the bearings, stator, and impeller, and shaft all slide right out the back..

[K447]

...once the "rear housing" is unbolted and removed, does the "impeller shaft" just slide on back through all the bearings and stuff, or do the bearings and impeller and associated parts that it (shaft) goes through going to come with it?

It is a fairly simple assembly.

The drive shaft is in front of the impeller and such, sandwiched between the engine and the impeller. The shaft just tends to get stuck inside the impeller nose, which is why the shaft tends to pull out when you pull the pump body off.

Other than falling on your back side when the pump lets go while you are pulling on it, there isn't much to worry about

Just don't drop the pump when it lets go, and it will all make sense once you have it off, and in your hands.

If the drive shaft doesn't come out with the pump, then it comes straight out with a pull. Nothing to loosen, it just slides out.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

there are rubber dampener buttons on each end of the drive shaft don't loose them