How to: Install Rad4 seal on RXT, RXT-X, GTX

[Gus13letter]

First I have to say thank you to Kevin at Rad4 Racing http://www.skimd.co.nz/index.php for providing the right driveshaft seal setup for the RXT, RXT-X, and GTX. It’s a great product designed so the bearing and seals ride on a flat surface, therefore providing a great seal from water entering the hull eliminating holeshot cavitation due to the dreaded carbon seal.

The machine shop I used who did a great job is http://exometalfab.com/ who also makes all the products listed here http://www.xmetalworks.com/performance.html . Incredible work!! Be sure to ask for Patrick and tell him Gus sent you.





Ok, now on to the install of the seal.

• Remove the upper tray where your front seat latches onto and your coolant tank mounts which is in the middle of the ski to give you more working room.
• Remove the super charger to give you more working room. There are 3 bolts that hold this on.
• Remove the C clip on the driveshaft.
  
  • To do this you must pull the collar that mates with the carbon seal back exposing the C clip (pic 1) and pop it off (pic 2).
  • I found that by removing the pump and installing a socket in the impeller (pic 3) and reinstalling the pump helps with this procedure. You only need to use 2 bolts in the pump when re installing and you do not want to install the pump very tight, just enough to put pressure on the driveshaft. Doing this doesn’t allow the driveshaft to move, making it easier to pull the collar back.
  • You may find that the collar is stuck. You can use various leverages to push the collar back to free it up. (pic 4) I used a pry bar and piece of metal as a spacer (wood works better).
  • Now you can remove the pump again.
• Remove the driveshaft.
  
  • Be careful when removing it, you do not want to just pull it out. The inner bearing that sits in the boot just off the back of the motor may come out. You may find that it is locked to the driveshaft and may require a slight tap with a screwdriver at the base of the shaft hitting the bearing forward. (pic 5). Two people for this makes it a little easier.
  • Make sure that when you remove the driveshaft the black end cap is on the driveshaft. (pic 6)
• Take the driveshaft to the machine shop and ask them to machine the side that goes into the engine to the specifications from Rad4 (Machine the shaft 1 inch diameter with a polished finish 150mm up from the end of the splines). Should only take about 30 minutes - 1 hour time.
  
  • It will look like pic 7 when completed. I would suggest doing this while you are waiting for the seal to be shipped to you. This way when you get the seal you can just install. Eliminates some downtime.
• When you receive the seal you must pack it full of grease (pic 8 the more the better. I used Bel-Ray Waterproof grease.
• Install the seal.
  
  • Install the seal in the silicone coupler. Do not install the clamps yet.
  • Install the coupler assembly on to the driveshaft through hull fitting (pic 9). Be sure all the mating surfaces are completely clean prior to installing it. Brake cleaner can be used.
  • You can use a little silicone on the mating surfaces prior to install. Do not install the clamps yet.
  • Install the supercharger without bolts and adjust the seal so that the grease fitting is accessible with the grease gun (pic 10).
  • Remove the supercharger
  • Install the clamps on the coupler (pic 11)
• Install the driveshaft.
  
  • Take your time and make sure it goes in smooth. Make sure you reinstalled the o ring and cap on the end of the driveshaft.
• Reinstall the pump, supercharger, and middle support.
• Put the grease gun on the seal, start the ski and slowly pump more grease into the seal until you see it coming out of the seals. This will ensure it is packed tight.
• After 10 minutes of riding re check the clamps on the seal boot to make sure they are tight.
• Go out and enjoy your new seal!!
• You must grease (2 pumps) the seal after every ride to prevent bearing failure.

[Gus13letter]

Last pic and one of everything installed.

[Gus13letter]

Delete. I was able to edit above post.

[lafjax]

Very nice Gus!! Great how-to! Thanks and good luck with your new seal.

[mjds257]

great write up gus... good luck with it

[meeper]

is that the silicone coupler that came with your seal? my rxp version was a straight, non reducing blue peice

[Gus13letter]

is that the silicone coupler that came with your seal? my rxp version was a straight, non reducing blue peice

The RXP seals are different. The coupler that had to be used was a 2" to 2.25". Its is because the seal has to be different. Thats why I did this writeup to show everyone the correct way to install these on the RXT, RXT-X, and GTX skis.

[jetskibum1]

Hey Gus, thats a great write up on our product. Have you had the ski on the water yet to experience the difference?
Thanks for your detailed report, I hope this helps others.

[Gus13letter]

Hey Gus, thats a great write up on our product. Have you had the ski on the water yet to experience the difference?
Thanks for your detailed report, I hope this helps others.

Unfortunately we have a tropical depression right off our coast and no one went out today. However I will be sure to come back with the results to the cavitation and water that has been in the hull due to the crappy carbon seal setup.

[Kl0n]

+1 n1!!!