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Thread: vf3 tuning

  1. #1
    MDGPR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006

    vf3 tuning

    alright finally got my ski all back together started it up ran fine sounded good, no exhaust leaks perfect. except my idling rpm was only 920 avg. when i hit the throttle it raised normally to 2500k. i imagine i have to adjust my efi. true? would this be the cause of the low rpms?

    dumb ?- the heat shield on the stinger is not required to be on? i figure its 3 more bolts everytime i ahve to break it down.


  2. #2
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Houston, Texas
    It is hard to gauge the rpms on the trailer. You do need to re-adjust your controller for your new mods. The #1 pot on the controller will help you adjust your low speed.

    Dont worry about that shield, most people dont have them on their boats

  3. #3
    mile_hi_1300's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    As far as the heat sheild goes, WFO is right, most people have removed them. If you leave your cat/con in then you should keep it on. It looks like your signature includes the D plate so you should be fine taking it off. You could keep it on there if you're a fan of the sleeper look but you said it yourself, it's 3 more bolts to take off.

    As far as tuning the EFI unit goes, there are a couple of excellent commonly referenced previous write ups to go with that I use as guides:
    per WFO
    #1-The Green fuel pot sets the engines fuel delivery idle to midrange cruising at constant throttle. Run this setting until the engine is warm and if it feels or smells "rich" back it down. I am at a 6 on the Green.

    #2-The Yellow fuel pot adds fuel on top of the Green when throttle is opened rapidly. Like an accelerator pump. With engine warm perform rolling WOTs and open till you get the most rpm gain or "flare" without stumble. One position at a time, open the pot till you reach desired setting.
    I am at a 5 on the Yellow.

    #3-The Red fuel pot functions as your main metering circuit. Run the craft WOT and note the rpms. Opening the Red pot adds fuel. You don’t have to go far with this one. Most boats run at the #1 setting. I am at 1 on the Red pot.

    #4-The RPM selector pot sets the RPMs at which the red(high) speed metering circuit takes over the green and yellow. You want this to go RED at approx 5500 rpms. For testing purposes, slowly accel engine until you see the Red pot light up and make small adjustments to achieve desired rpm setting. Note: 1 is supposed to equal 1000 rpms, 2-2000 rpms and so on. This is only a guide and may not be accurate. My high speed comes in about 5600 rpms and I am set at 7.
    __________________________________________________ _________

    per Mtrager
    1. Mount controller on glove box.
    2.warm motor up
    3. ride ski looking at low speed light. Turn fuel up until you hear it blubber. Turn back one.
    4. Cruise with midrange light on. Turn up until it is rich. Back it up.
    5.On high speed start high and turn down until you hit max rpm.

    When doing the low and midrange keep your rpm constant while you are adjusting. When you get rich you will hear it blubber through the freeflow.

    After you do that it should pull hard from anywhere. Your GPS speeds will not go down after the motor gets hot. It will run within 2 tenths each time
    no matter how many you run.

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