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  1. #1

    2014 Spark Taking on lots of Water Near Bellow

    My SeaDoo Spark is taking on a lot of water in a short amount of time. About 4 gallons in 20 minutes of hard riding. There are no leaks in the hull and the drain plug was in and sealed. I got the ski home and ran it on the hose with the top propped open and did not see any water leaks from cooling lines or the water box.
    So I took the ski to the boat ramp yesterday with the top off to let it float with the pump submerged to see if I could find a leak, and I did. There was a steady stream of water. About .5 L in 20 minutes with the ski off and just floating. I assume the leak is much worse when the ski is running in the water.
    The leak was coming from the area around the drive shaft bellow, but didn't look to be actually coming out of the bellow. To me it looks like it's coming from the metal cover on the engine side of the bellow.
    I've attached a picture that was taken with my phone on the bottom of the hull pointing up. It was a tight squeeze so quality isn't that great. Inside the blue box is the steady stream of water.

    Any ideas as to what the issue could be before I tear down / order parts?

    Link to image
    https://i.imgur.com/HkL3WBU.jpg

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Player Four; 10-23-2017 at 10:16 AM.

  2. #2
    stuckmoto's Avatar
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    I would start with a new hose clamp. Pull the bellows back/clean with alcohol/clean PTO area and remount...see if it leaks. After that I'd replace the PTO gasket and oil seals. Good luck.

  3. #3
    cyrillefrenchy's Avatar
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    i have seen a few leaking exactly where you say: there is 2 slots on rear engine casing around crankshaft, the crankshaft itself is rusted and the 2 seals located inside that little casing are not doing their job anymore, there is no metal left, it all turned into rust. unfortunately the only way to fix it right is to replace the crankshaft.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by cyrillefrenchy View Post
    i have seen a few leaking exactly where you say: there is 2 slots on rear engine casing around crankshaft, the crankshaft itself is rusted and the 2 seals located inside that little casing are not doing their job anymore, there is no metal left, it all turned into rust. unfortunately the only way to fix it right is to replace the crankshaft.
    You don't think replacing the PTO gasket and 2 oil seals would do the job?

    Also, what is supposed to prevent water from coming you of the 2 slots on the PTO cover? Do the oil seals cover them in a perfect situation and prevent water from coming out? Otherwise I would think water would always leak from there.
    Last edited by Player Four; 11-01-2017 at 12:42 PM.

  5. #5
    Update: I've got the driveshaft and PTO cover off. The crank doesn't look very rusty but there are a few spots of rust that may be 0.5 mm or less, lower than than the un-rusted part of the crank. Also now that the PTO cover is off, it's possible that oil is slowly leaking out. Is that to be expected?

    Update 2: The oil certainly came out after removing the PTO cover although checking the oil on the dipstick it's still reading right below the max fill line like it was before I pulled the PTO cover. Maybe the engine has to run to get the oil back in there and then it will read low??
    Last edited by Player Four; 11-03-2017 at 07:50 AM.

  6. #6
    Final Update. Problem found.

    The crankshaft was rusty and the oil seals were worn down.

    Solution:
    If you have warranty get it fixed obviously.
    If you don't have warranty, install bilge pump and keep on riding OR let your Spark sink and go buy a better jet ski that won't have this issue with your insurance claim money lol

  7. #7
    cyrillefrenchy's Avatar
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    doing another spark toay, same thing crankshaft tip all rusted and no metal left to seal properly. anybody het found a solution to fix the problem? thinking about having crankshaft turned down on a lathe and install a thin stainless sleeve to get back to initial diameter and reinstall new seals,i am pretty sure it will last forever that way but a lot of labor to do it.

  8. #8
    cyrillefrenchy's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here i a picture of rusted crank tip

  9. #9
    Aw man nice picture. Mine was nowhere near that bad. I had a couple of spots that were a small amount lower than what the non-rusty part of the crank was.

    Because I really had nothing to lose since there was no way on earth I was going to pay to have the crankshaft replaced, (that's out of my mechanical skills comfort zone), if my makeshift fix didn't work I was just going to part the ski out.

    AGAIN, this is obviously not the RIGHT way to fix it, but I tried it anyway since my 2nd option if it didn't work was parting it out.

    cyrillefrenchy,
    What I did was over the course of a few days, put a light coat of JB Weld on the rusted areas of the crank and made it as smooth as possible with a paint brush.
    I then let it dry for the 15-24 hours it says to on the box and then sanded the dried JB Weld smooth with small strips of pretty fine grit sandpaper.
    I did this over and over, probably put 8-10 coats of it on the rusted spots, sanding it smooth after every coat.
    All the rusted spots ended up being flush with the parts of the crank that had no rust.
    This worked for me, and I no longer have a leak. I'm not sure about the longevity of my cheap solution, still good after 10 hours, but hey! it cost me $5 and some time lol. As a ski owner, I'd rather have to reapply some JB weld every 25-50 hours than pay the 3k+ to have a new crank put in.

    I don't need to be told by anyone how dumb of an idea this was haha like I said I had nothing to lose.

    Your stainless steel sleeve idea is very good, but it would take a good bit of time.

  10. #10
    cyrillefrenchy's Avatar
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    good job player four, if it holds that's good but i dont think it will last very long, a seal lip can dig a groove in a hardened steel shaft like crank or driveshaft, i dont thing jb weld or other epoxy is harder than steel.
    I am doing these jobs for customers and so far i saw 4 this year, none of these guys wanted to replace cranks as value of these skis are around 3k and repair cost will be too close to ski value, 2 skis have been sold cheap on craigslist and 2 others owners asked me to install automatic bilge pump and are still running like that.


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