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05-06-2008, 10:51 PM #1
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Stator damage with Battery charge?
Greets:
I've read conflicting posts on this, so, would some one who knows please comment:
Will stator damage result if an SLT 700 battery is charged by a (1) amp feed without disconnecting the ground?
Thanks in advance...........
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05-06-2008, 10:55 PM #2
Right or wrong, I've been charging all my Domestic powered watercraft since 96, never an issue.
And WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!
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05-06-2008, 11:04 PM #3
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no way!!
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05-07-2008, 01:09 AM #4
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No problem, as long as you don't try starting it while the charger is still connected!
Also, be sure the charger doesn't overcharge the battery. Almost nothing shortens battery life faster than overcharging.
Make sure the battery vent tube is connected to the little nipple on the end of the battery. It vents acidic and explosive battery gases outside the hull (the exit end of the vent tube is located near the steering). This tube often falls off the battery, so zip tie it on.Last edited by K447; 05-07-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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05-07-2008, 08:52 PM #5
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Thanks Guys..........................
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05-07-2008, 09:49 PM #6
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05-07-2008, 10:08 PM #7
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Trickle chargers are a problem for the PWC battery if they don't back off the charging current once the battery is fully, fully charged.
This is especially true if the charger was designed for the larger automotive batteries, not the small watercraft batteries.
Pumping 1 or 2 amps into a fully charged 18 AMP/hour PWC battery is going to cause gassing, since 100% of that charge current has to be dissipated. Battery gassing means lost fluid vapor and gases from the battery, through the vent. Lost fluid means shortened battery life, and reduced power capacity.
I use a smart battery charger/maintainer, which dials back the charge current to near zero, then maintains the battery at 100% charge, with zero overcharging.
Temperature compensation is another battery life extending feature of the better smart chargers. The correct voltage for accurate charging, without overcharging, depends on the battery's temperature.
Without temperature compensation, even a smart charger can under or overcharge a battery that is at a different temperature than the temp the charger assumes it is.
Charging in a cold garage, or on a hot day, will charge the battery, but if left to 'fully' charge for many hours, the battery life can be reduced if the temp/charge curve is wrong.
You can use a simple/cheap charger, and your battery will be charged. Without a decent charger, the battery life can be a fraction of what it could have been.
Related note: AGM type batteries require a AGM compatible charger for maximum capacity charging, and maximum lifespan. AGM requires a slightly higher charging voltage (about 1/2 volt more).
A well cared for AGM battery can last many years, and provide stronger starting power than a conventional wet lead-acid battery. PWC size AGM battery costs $100 or less. Charge and maintain it properly, it will last a long time.Last edited by K447; 05-07-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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05-08-2008, 10:01 AM #8
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05-08-2008, 11:27 PM #9
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AGM battery information
I had a PM inquiry about AGM batteries, and thought I might share my reply here;
AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat
Unlike a regular lead-acid 'flooded' battery, the AGM battery has fiberglass mats between the lead plates, and the acid is wicked into the weave of the glass mat.
A regular battery just has an open grid plastic separator and liquid acid in the spaces between the many thin plates. If those lead plates warp or flex, the battery becomes damaged.
AGM construction means the acid cannot leak out, since it is held by the matting, like wet a paper towel holds water. It also means the battery is essentially solid, with alternating layers of lead and fiberglass, so it is rugged. No room for the lead plates to flex or warp.
AGM batteries are more complex to manufacture, so they cost more.
There are a number of companies making AGM batteries, but I like the East Penn Deka AGM product (sold under a number of brand names, including West Marine's SeaVolt and Bass Pro XPS). The red plastic protective storage cap with the two brass D-shaped spacer washers is the clue that it is an East Penn PWC battery.
Some more info about AGM batteries
Gel batteries are in the middle. The acid is in gelled form, which won't leak out, but without the near solid reinforcement of glass mats between the plates. The gel itself can develop small air pockets during manufacturing, or from vibration and rough handling, which reduce battery capacity.
Gel batteries can be a good option if you want spill/leak proof, but don't want to spend the extra money for AGM.
When shopping for an AGM battery, look for one that is completely sealed (other than the excess pressure relief valve, which all sealed batteries must have).
Some 'sealed' AGM batteries come with an acid 'charging kit', that the dealer or purchaser needs to carefully pour into the battery to activate it. I don't like those, and prefer AGM that comes from the factory with the acid in place, all sealed and ready to go.
I put it on an AGM compatible battery charger first, make sure it is fully charged, then install it.
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05-09-2008, 09:23 PM #10
Thanks for the replies... I think i will get an bettery tender first and then go on from there.. My battery so far is ok...I will file all of this info for when i need it!
thanks
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